For his third womenswear outing, Croatian-born Paris-based Croatian designer Damir Doma was inspired by the photography of American artist Deborah Turbeville, sending a sleek army of black-lipped, bandaged girls down the runway of the Grand Palais’ light-filled Galerie Sud Est.

Exercising a study in angled layers, Doma opened with a monochrome story that disintegrated into a flurry of fur gilets, leopard ponyskin sheaths and copper knitwear. A play between formal and sportif references worked well – with kimono shapes executed in sweatshirt fabrics, soft knitted cycle shorts and long column dresses in supple leather and fluid silks. Applying his draped silhouette with a new sense of severity coupled with his menswear influences, this season solidifies the Doma aesthetic – and bodes well for introducing his look to a sophisticated (and albeit wider) clientele.