Dirk Van Saene’s NºA is a benchmark in the history of the ‘A’ concept as the inaugural edition, effectively proving the strength and possibilities of the ‘carte blanche’ idea from the very beginning. The strength of his issue is subtly evident even when browsing through the index of the magazine, as even the title of each story begins with the letter ‘A’! The list of contributors tells an intimate tale of friends and colleagues working together to celebrate Dirk Van Saene and his work, a group who have in fact continued to work with A for several later issues – with core players in the Antwerp creative circle including Ronald Stoops, who shot this retrospective fashion story with Dirk.

Mixing and matching collections from the early nineties until the early noughties, this expressive story removes the direct context of a specific season, allowing the garments to shine with eclectic styling and a distillation of the greater essence of Dirk Van Saene’s work.

Photographer Ronald Stoops shot the black & white story in Antwerp with his wife Inge Grognard, who recreated various makeup looks from Dirk’s shows on models Anne & Inge. The shots are alive with a cinematic fervor, as the girls explore new identities with each changing face – from blackened lips to red balls covering the eyebrows, dusty white splotches or a studded forehead. The garments add a poppy, graphic tone that is not lost through the monochrome format, with the textural accessories and crisp shapes forming a youthful blend of 60s silhouettes and 90s grunge.

Top image: Black satin dress embroidered with white pearls (Fall Winter 1994-95), black wool coat with separate segments (Fall Winter 1999-2000).

Makeup: ‘Falling Snow’ Spring Summer 1999.

Above left: ‘Towel’ jacket and choker (Spring Summer 1991),

Makeup:  ’red balls’ (Fall Winter 1999-2000).

Above right: Orange jersey shirt with attached gloves (Fall Winter 1989-90), checked bow tie and off-white tweed shirt with orange inserts (Fall Winter 2001-02), cape (Spring Summer 1996), transparent shoes (Spring Summer 1998), face-net ‘Prettiest Star’ (Fall Winter 1997-98),

Makeup: Spring Summer 1991.

Above: white paper dress (Spring Summer 1999), tulle jacket (spring summer 1991), ostrich feather wig by Stephen Jones (Spring Summer 2001). Shoes as before.

Above left: long white dress with flower photo print (Fall Winter 1995-96),

Makeup: ‘studs’ (Spring Summer 1997).

Above right: short white dress with flower photo print (Fall Winter 1995-96), latex peacoat (Fall Winter 1990-91).

Makeup: ‘studs’ (Spring Summer 1997).

Above: overpainted ‘Renoir’ tourists t-shirt (Spring Summer 1991), separate fur sleeves (Fall Winter 1990-91), trompe l’oeil jeans (Fall Winter 1998-99), hat (Fall Winter 1994-95), embroidered shoes (Spring Summer 1997).

Above left: Knitted boa & ‘Bowie’ brooch (Fall Winter 1991-92), silver leather military shirt (Fall Winter 2001-02).

Makeup: ‘angel dust’ (Spring Summer 1998).

Above right: green woolen coat (Fall Winter 1996-97), brooch (Fall Winter 1995-96), ‘Reward’ tshirt (Spring Summer 1997), ‘Delaunay’ miniskirt (Fall Winter 2001-02), choker (Fall Winter 1991-92).

Makeup: ‘black mouth’ (Spring Summer 2000).