A decade ago, former-DUTCH editor and Madame Figaro editor Elisabeth Paillié wrote her Antwerp story – speaking as a regular visitor, explorer and lover of the city. She speaks of people and places, and the warm feeling that comes from a friendly, more relaxed city than her hometown of Paris. If one compared her account to the present day, in ten years it seems very little has changed.

The biggest evolution has been around the people, not the place. It is people who are more dynamic – remaining anything but stagnant since 2001. Today we see the former Academy director Linda Loppa now at Polimoda in Florence, with Walter Van Beirendonck taking her place in Antwerp. No longer with the Louis store, Geert Bruloot is instead at the helm of Coccodrillo with Eddy Michiels, and curating Stephen Jones’ exhibition at MoMu (opening in September). Many others have come and gone, but there are still more than a few who remain stalwart in their dedication to Antwerp, to its changes and its unwavering institutions.

Reading through the veritable ‘time capsule’ below, it is evident that Antwerp holds something of a universal charm, a character that translates through the years and leaves the feeling of warmth, familiarity and welcome to all who pass through.

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“I haven’t counted the number of cobblestones that I love to tread in these narrow streets brightened by vegetation.
I have not counted the number of gables, which I love to see standing out like the Stations of the Cross against the pure sky or clouds.

I haven’t counted the number of ‘Antwerpse Handjes’ – those delicate and diving confectionary ambassadors – that I’ve brought my family and friends in Paris. (Everyone loves them, and I’ve become a Phillips’ Biscuits subscriber.)
I can’t count all the emotions that have welled up at the sight of the rich collections and installation of the Academy’s students (thank you, Linda), the summer examining board days, when the city is bubbling with excitement.
And all the ‘freeze-frames’ that have become rituals: Hailing the Virgin Mary in Saint Andrew’s Church. (I fell in love with her during the Geometry exhibition in September 1999, with her delicate face, blushing living cheeks, and sumptuous garments. Today she has obtained very special grace, decked out in Ann Demeulemeester’s ever-so-poetic feather breastplate.)

Saying “hello!” as well to the giant teddy bear in his futuristic, fun-filled space at Walter Van Beirendonck’s.
Hoping to run across Dirk Van Saene and his gentleness and his luminous, youthful aunt. Listening to the white pigeons that never finish telling stories of their lives (our lives?) in Ann Demeulemeester’s moving boutique.
Lunching at De Kleine Zavel and not forgetting how one sad day of dieting I received a giant plate of steamed vegetables in every imaginable shade of green. Ambrosia and a work of art. And a great kindness.

Closing my eyes to feel better the omnipresent wind that informs that Antwerp is a port town.
Mentally photographing the orthodox Jews’ headgear and side locks.
Admiring the strict, graphic, black-and-white uniforms of the chef and waiters at Paul Preud’Homme’s.
Still marvelling at how nice and helpful the staff of the ‘t Sandt are (I’m one of their regular patrons).
Dining at the Pottenbrug for its almost Parisian bistro-like atmosphere (minus the arrogance, however) and because you’re never disappointed by what’s on your plate.
And the diners have faces that inspire trust.

Coming across Geert Bruloot in his shop ‘Louis’ and congratulation him on his window and selection. Peeking into MUHKA (the modern art museum), where you’re sure to get a surprise.
Such as today, with the work of Berlinde de Bruyckere.
Discovering the ‘little island’, near Dries Van Noten’s and the Vandevorsts’.
Yes, indeed, Antwerp is a port. And the harbour basins are lucky enough to host swans to poeticise their waters.
Lunching in a monumental warehouse, which is tuned today to the Roland Garros tennis championship, featuring the pretty Flemish fighter Kim Clijsters. It’s such fun!
And then turning a corner in a red-brick street or walking into a restaurant and meeting an acquaintance who smiles, with a calm look, no stress, no hurry-worry.

When I leave the city, I tell myself that the station is so beautiful people should be forced to visit it, or at least take a good look at it.
Antwerp is both simple and delicately rich.
It is both exotic and homey.

That’s Antwerp.”