NºA is certainly no lookbook or selfish retrospective, but rather an homage to those who have inspired Dirk Van Saene and in turn those whom he has encouraged and promoted through his work as a teacher.

For the piece “Astonishing Souvenirs”, Dirk selected the work of five designers who came before him, by researching past magazine editorials from the 1960s to the 1980s for specific outfits, finding “fashion moments” that he connected with. Taking these photographs, Belgian illustrator Madeleine Wermenbol translated them into an abstract graphic series, outlining the garments with lines of text that describe each piece and the feel of each designer’s collection.

The editorial pictures are sourced from the pages of magazines such as i-D and L’Officiel, and feature designers as diverse as André Courrèges in the late 60s to early 80s Vivienne Westwood and 2001 Junya Watanabe, Madeleine’s interpretation of the classic fashion images paints a minimal, pared back vision of the actual garments, while the text within each line describes with more detail.

Although not the most sensual experience of fashion, this series is an interesting historical exercise into the archives of the 20th century, and stretches our imagination and personal knowledge, to link the aesthetic of the era with the faceless, textureless diagrams.

Above:

André Courrèges
Spring Summer 1965
Photographed by Willy Rizzo
Seen in Marie Claire – 1st March 1965

“HAT. Panama Hat with band under the chin.”

“This suit with a dress is in wool gabardine alternatively smooth and striped. Unisex. Geometric. Stiff fabrics. Futuristic. Symbol: A marguerite daisy.”

“The skirt is slightly flared. Straight neck with small collar. Pocket flaps.”

“White gloves”

“Calf length boots in goat leather with open tip. Bow at the front.”

Yves Saint Laurent
Autumn Winter 1969-70
Photographed by Roland Bianchini
Seen in L’Officiel – September 1969 – page 19

“Scarf round the head.”

“Roll neck”

“Jacket in brown mink. As well as the fringes at the edges of hems and sleeves. Slightly flared.”

“Under this jacket a short tunic dress in beige tweed.”

“On the hips a belt of large metal rings.”

“Thigh-high boots designed by Roger Vivier for Yves Saint Laurent.”

Jean Paul Gaultier
Spring Summer 1981
Photographed by Gunnar Larsen
Seen in Avantgarde – no. 2, 1981 – page 40

“Earrings made from the base of a tin can.”

“A pleated jabot as a top.”

“Fun. Humour. Revolutionary.”

“Rolled-up shorts entirely in foil with a wide waist that folds back over a belt.”

“Bracelets made out of open-ended cans.”

Vivienne Westwood
Autumn Winter 1982
Photographed by James Palmer
Seen in i-D – no. 8, 1982 – page 38

“Uncompromising, anarchic, anti-establishment.”

“This Buffalo collection includes swirling petticoats, ruffles, prairie hats, baggy boots.”

“Underwear is worn as outerwear. Bras are worn over dresses.”

“Bashed-in hats, printed zest hoods, skirts with large prints and leather trim, leather frock coats, toga dresses and bras.”

“New shape. Squares. Up on top and down below.”

Junya Watanabe
Autumn Winter 2000-01
Photographed by Peter Stigter
Seen in Slam – October 2000 – page 18

“Turquoise.”

“Seventy layers of Ester chintz were cut into a unique pattern by laser.”

“The layers were sewn together at alternating connecting points.”

“The dresses (or are they jackets) unfold like paper lanterns. They were delivered to the shops folded up.”