A Carte Blanche called ‘Opium’, by Haider Ackermann

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Last night Haider Ackermann hosted a lavish evening of fashion, performance and celebration in the Palazzo Corsini on the edge of the Arno river in Florence, on the occasion of Pitti Woman Nº6. In a unique fusion of the baroque surroundings and the bohemian spirit of Haider, guests witnessed a champagne reception followed by a piano concert and fashion parade, featuring both womens and menswear silhouettes. Upon entering the maze of exquisitely decorated, elegantly faded rooms, we were greeted by white-clad waiters attending tables covered in silver tureens piled with exotic fruits – grapes, pomegranates, figs and redcurrants all entangled in a striking melee.

Accompanying the opulent fare, piles of silver-lined books lay for our perusal – Haider’s  limited edition inspiration book printed for the occasion. With a poetic preface written by Francesco Bonami, the tome is rich with content from many of Haider’s idols, friends and frequent collaborators including Paolo Roversi, Robert Mapplethorpe, Berlinde de Bruckyere, Antony & the Johnsons and Tilda Swinton.

At 9:30pm sharp, the show began in the central courtyard of the Palazzo, under crystal chandeliers hung on iron cables. Opening with a spotlit shadow on a dark velvet curtain, model Jamie Bochert walked in the first blush pink gown across the pebbled floors of the courtyard to a grand piano, to join the violins with her deep, mellow vocals and discordant piano.

Entitled “A Carte Blanche named Opium“, the showcase was a romantic homage to a travelling woman and her man alone in the deserted palazzo, channeling a gypsy spirit of North Africa.

The womens looks were a study in eveningwear that eloquently anticipated the Florentine setting, with flowing satin gowns, tanks and trousers that were cinched with top-stitched obi belts and fell off the shoulder in reams of light draping. The colour story played off the menswear with a soft, feminine edge – with blushing pink, beige, subtle leopard and deep aubergine.

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In the menswear, echoes of the souks and deserts abounded in rich tapestry fabrics, fish-like paillettes, fluid harem pants and vivid crimson, turquoise and aubergine silks offset with dusty grey and faded black. Layered loose fabrics of alternating textures and shades held a masculine grace and a relaxed grunge, belted and folded to reveal a gradient of colour, and an imbalance of lengths and proportion.

Both mens and womens looks were paired with pointed slippers, embellished with layers of peacock feathers, silver beading and leopard satin.

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As the models wove in and out in a slow precession amongst the eclectic sofas and seats, Jamie closed the performance with a touching rendition of “Knocking on heaven’s door”. A reverent silence hung in the air for seconds before the applause re-animated the party. The white-clad waiters returned with dessert, taking to the runway to remind us of the famous Italian hospitality – paired with the travelling Columbian’s Belgian aesthetic for spectacular effect.

To view the full collection, please click here.

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  1. [...] Francesco Bonami is the artistic director of Pitti Immagine and senior curator at large of the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago. On the occasion of Pitti Woman Nº6, he offered this insightful, elegant prose to preface Haider Ackermann’s carnet de voyage, the inspiration journal created for A Carte Blanche called ‘Opium’. [...]