Last night the MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp opened its doors on the new ‘Masters of Black’ exhibition celebrating the world’s darkest fashion – from historical costume to cutting-edge couture. Lurking in the shadowy rooms are many of the finest pieces from designers close to our fold, with stunning creations from our curators and their collaborators.

Belgian fashion holds a strong presence in the exhibition, as does the Paris catwalk, and the ceremonial and formal clothing of bygone eras. Artworks from the Belgian masters from 17th century to present day accompany the works, with pieces by Goethe and Van Dijck complementing the clothing, and adding historical weight to the exhibition – with the context of black textile dyeing in Antwerp during these times. Separated into thematic areas, the exhibition explores the concepts of specific designers and wider themes such as ‘Romance & Rebellion’, texture, film noir and the ‘Little Black Dress’. Mannequins are swathed in the most luxurious of black fabrics – from heavy wools to the lightest silks, techno-synthetics to feathers and fur. Both embellishment and minimalism are celebrated, though the favour certainly swings to the former, with decadent displays of beading, jewellery, pleating and ruching.

A stunning ballgown from Givenchy haute couture by Riccardo Tisci stands guard over the exhibition, and a final salute comes from a simple shift dress with asymmetric pleating from Yohji Yamamoto, (above). Comme des Garçons takes centrestage with deconstructed silky jackets, next to Junya Watanabe’s thick quilted dress from FW09. Ann Demeulemeester personally styled her own display, using a mix of new and older pieces for a sparkling, gothic display featuring chainmail, crystal beading, leather coats and a coque feathered waistcoat. Raf Simons‘ has taken over the circular anteroom for a dramatic display of capes, and Nick Knight’s film for Gareth Pugh plays in the cinema room.

Other screens dot the exhibition, showing videos from Comme des Garçons and Raf Simons, and several mannequins revolve in a soft, eerie movement. Accessories lie trapped under glass cabinets – with feathered fans, ebony hair combs and other vintage pieces, and a leather-covered skull from Natalia Brilli.

Other contributions from our collaborators include a cut-out skull dress from Undercover’s Jun Takahashi,

a fluid wool skirt and jacket from Haider Ackermann,

black bow dresses from Dirk Van Saene,

and a triangular-shaped mourning dress from Viktor & Rolf.

The exhibition is directed by Kaat Debo – editor of A#6 & A#7, with scenography conducted by Bob Verhelst. The delicate balance of history juxtaposed with contemporary references is refreshing, offering new context to catwalk garments and allowing the viewer to think deeper and darker into the world of black fashion – where it began, and where it is going.

Masters of Black in Fashion & Costume

25/03/2010 – 08/08/2010

MoMu|
28 Nationalestraat,
Antwerp 2000 Belgium

www.momu.be