CALCULATED FORTUNE

Haider Ackermann surely is the modern master of draping. With genuine intuition and sensitivity, he meticulously creates wave-like structures caressing the female figure. Following the force of gravity while denying its rules. Due to his ingenious technique, even leather appears slight and fluent. His aesthetics of random effortless is communicated, translated and respelled throughout each of his collections. A signature design approach whose antique influences and statuesque appearance evolves into an invention of its time. Gathered, wrenched and prolonged, it is persued by a new generation of fashion graduates. Inspired and lead by Ackermann’s sense for the capricious character of fabric, form and structure.

PROPORTIONAL SEGMENTATION
The female figure is divided into exact segments. Each of them revealing and reinforcing the woman’s anatomy. The almost cruel division is accomplished through length, fabrics and colour, always executed with finest virtuosity. Slouchy trousers are layered with transparent skirts. Short jackets in washed leather build up the top part, covering fine structures of organza and accented by sharp belts. Waist, legs and neck are radically emphasized. The Ackermann woman is dressed in severe uniforms of sexuality. Sharp expressions of their gender identity. Highlighted by the use of a complex colour code consisting of greys, blacks and darks, as well as an antithetic use of matt, fluorescent and metallic surfaces. The composition of proportional blocks is strict and repetitive, creating reliable rules for accessible sovereignty.

VOLUMINOUS FLATNESS
A contemporary classic and iconic piece, the coat is transformed into a symbol of thoughtlessness, using a subtle blanket metaphor. The main principle is negation, taking away, pretending to be no particular garment or meant to be worn. The illusion is created through precise cuts and a minimalistic restraint. Brave enough to hide intelligent complexity under manifest dishevelment. The result: a piece of clothing, seemingly thrown into the air and slowly floating down until it coincidentally falls upon the shoulders of its wearer. No further details are needed, the structure reigns thoroughly.

ELUSIVE BREEZE
Dresses, transient and soft like a haze. Ultra light nightmares beleaguering the sleeping beauty. Writhing herself in sheets of transparent organza. A whiff of nothing that builds the sheer armour of female strength and emancipation. Whilst exposing vulnerable nudity, Haider Ackermann reaches for the highest of his capabilities: creating absolute pulchritude. The pure essence of femininity uncovered yet concealed under extremely delicate but complicated structures. It is the subliminal fight between presence and abstinence that seduces the beholder with intensity.