With a change of pace, Kris Van Assche presented a stricter, more militant Dior Homme collection at the Tennis Club de Paris for Autumn Winter 2012-13. A slim, squared suit was worn with an ankle boot and baseball cap for an edgier, masculine silhouette and Van Assche’s now-signature unfinished feeling was expressed in a series of “inside-out” trompe l’oeil coats and jackets – their lining, quilting and refined piping exposed. The finale seemed at first to be a series of oversized camouflage, but was in fact a stunning appliqué of swooping birds.

Words by Dan Thawley

Photography by Reto Schmid