“Martin Margiela based his collection around the twin ideas of couture and tailoring. He reproduced the Stockmans dummy which a designer uses for fitting first his toiles, then his paper patterns, then his sample, into a tightly-fitted, mandarin-collared sleeveless jacket. With all the appropriate details and dimensions printed on it, this piece can be seen as a provicative and nicely iconoclastic reflection on the whole purpose of fashion.” – Kanako B. Koga on Maison Martin Margiela A/W 98-99.

Kanako B. Koga is a Paris-based Japanese fashion stylist, who first worked with the Maison Martin Margiela in the late 90’s and assisted Martin himself during his stint at the helm of Hèrmes in Paris.

“We met by coincidence through friends in the fashion business. I remember white confetti and graffiti on the wall. It was in Spring 1991 on the Boulevard St Denis [Paris] where I was visiting the showroom during the ‘open day’. - Kanako B. Koga on meeting Martin for the first time.

For A#1, Kanako has offered her musings on first meeting Martin, as well thoughts on his A/W 98-99 collection and  an exclusive reprint of her editorial story with photographer Fred Jacobs featuring iconic British actress Jane Birkin in the 2000 publication High Fashion 12. Kanako styled Jane in flowing, oversized garments from Maison Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester in an exaggeration of her own classic, slightly masculine style – in particular a massive denim jean that hung like a shirt off her lithe frame. Fred Jacobs captured an organic and nonchalant beauty in the story’s heroine, with the simplicity of the set and the garments accentuating Jane’s pale skin and messed dark hair.