Maison Martin Margiela ’20′ hits London

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A white caravan stands like a familiar sentinel, welcoming us to enter Maison Martin Margiela’s “20 The Exhibition” now installed at London’s Somerset House until September 5th, 2010. Formerly shown at MoMu in Antwerp and Munich’s Haus der Kunst, this twenty year retrospective is an insightful journey into the world of the white lab coat – an extensive archive of the house’s history told through artifacts, installations, photography and video. The exhibition has been co-curated by Somerset House’s Claire Catterall and MoMu’s Kaat Debo alongside Belgian scenographer Bob Verhelst. According to Claire, “some of the rhythms are different to how it appeared in Antwerp or Munich, because the team has had to work with the quite difficult shape and space of the gallery at Somerset House.”

Remodelled for the historical riverside space (overlooking the Thames), the “20″ exhibition takes new life under the vaulted concrete ceilings of the mezzanine gallery – complementing the cool, clinical undertones of the subject matter. Exploring the Margiela story through a series of appropriately-numbered installations, the exhibition details the complete universe of the brand from show invitations and footage through to the artisanal garments, classic tailoring, signature silhouettes, three customers’ private wardrobes, the ‘incognito’ and various ‘trompe l’oeil’ visual concepts, the production and destruction processes and the various special projects like the ‘Duvet coat’ and ‘A Doll’s Wardrobe’. The Maison Martin Margiela fragrance ‘Untitled’ is a new addition to the London edition, featured alongside other retail elements such as the classic Stockman mannequins.

Please keep reading as we present our interview with the curators shortly, with further information on the interesting events and limited edition items that accompany the exhibition.

  • The exhibition runs from 3 June – 5 September 2010
  • Open daily 10.00 to 18.00, with late night opening on Thursday until 20.00
  • Ticket Price: Adult £6, Concessions £5, Under 12s Free
  • Address: Somerset House Embankment Galleries, Stand, London, WC2R 1LA
  • For further information, call 020 7845 4600
  • To book tickets, visit www.somersethouse.org.uk

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Above: STORES – A selection of Maison Martin Margiela store paraphernalia in the Embankment galleries.

Above: PAINT – the white painted concept, including the Maison Martin Margiela ‘Untitled’ fragrance.

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Above: INCOGNITO – The anonymous white Maison Martin Margiela team portrait.

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Above: DESTROY – Artisanal pieces including the Fall Winter 1989-90 porcelain dish and wire waistcoat.

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Above: TABI – a selection of the Japanese-inspired ‘tabi’ shoes in silver leather.

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Above: INCOGNITO – A selection of pieces that explore the ‘incognito’ concept of disguise and anonymity.

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Above: TAILORING: SHOULDERS – a focus on the house’s study of shoulders with a film installation.

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Above: SILHOUETTES – from 1989-2008.

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Above: REPLICA – exact archetypal pieces from specific time periods, recreated in the collections.

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