Filep Motwary from the widely-read ‘Un Nouveau Ideal‘ fashion website spoke with A#5 curator Martine Sitbon this month, and we present his candid and personal interview below.

*                       *                       *

“Although we (Martine and I) met in person during my Paris days some years back, thanks to Yvan Mispelaere, I felt it was the right moment for me to reach for her again and share our conversation with you.”

Filep Motwary: It’s already more than 25 years for you in the service of fashion. Are there any moments that you still question yourself about the path you chose to follow?

Martine Sitbon: Every time, before every a fashion show. But the fact that I have decided to continue, it makes each of the following season much more interesting and worthwhile.

FM: How different is the “esprit” of Rue du Mail compared to the late Martine Sitbon label?

MS: On a creative level, there are no difference between Rue du Mail and Martine Sitbon labels – they are both designed by the same person, me.

The essence of my taste has not changed drastically over the years; it has just evolved. With Rue du Mail, my goal is to capture what is Parisian chic with a modern attitude. I wanted to explore and realize a form of a truly independent Parisian fashion house, and not just another brand; what is important to me is the soul of creativity within, and that soul has roots in Paris.

FM: You are a “womans” designer, as I see it. Someone who creates clothes for women and the way they feel about themselves and their bodies. Apart from their sex, what is the difference between a man and a woman?

MS: The obvious one is the general construction and shape between man and woman is fundamentally different. My view on designing for men is not too different from designing for women; it is based on the relevance to my feeling of the season. You always design for today.

FM: Fashion today has become a bit of a “role play” experience. The people involved tent to masquerade depending on circumstances. How did you manage to stay out of these games, keeping a low profile and still remain as one of the designers that the industry respects so much?

MS: Feet on the ground, head in the clouds.

FM: What was the idea behind your SS10 collection. I loved the music you chose…

MS: It is to do with the calmness with a sense of urgency, or the sense of urgency to attain the calmness. With the world surrounded by the financial crisis, which is affecting almost everyone, it is just my way to ridicule the situation, of how it is far too easy to be sucked into a downward spiral. Only if one will make the effort to pause, the world is still beautiful.

Our long time collaborator, and good friend Frederic Sanchez always comes up with something new and inspiring for our soundtracks at shows. He is truly talented, and is able to conjure up sounds that highlight the emotions of a fashion show that surpasses the clothes. This season we favored the sounds of a young French artist Bernard Fevre, the result? A timeless ethereal mood…

FM: How optimistic you feel about the future of Fashion? What will change in ten years time? Could you give us your opinion?

MS: Personally, fashion is only as relevant as its players. I sincerely hope the newer generation of designers would focus on the beauty and the authenticity of fashion and not the glory, fame and monetary gain. This is the only way to preserve the future of fashion.

The fashion environment of today is quite complex, but that is all part of the excitement and a challenge to propose a true point of view.

What is important to me is a sense of individualism.

FM: In your own words, what makes the characteristic of your style and how relevant it is with today’s scene?

MS: I truly believe that when a designer starts to define his or her own style, that is the beginning of the end. My creations are for dreamers who live in the reality. They are the same people I see when I go out to a café and when I travel. This is my way to keep myself relevant, because I do not design for people that do not exist.

FM: As a designer with such great past and present, what motivates you really and what inspires you to keep the track going?

MS: A day is such a waste if you don’t learn something, be it about the world or about yourself. To be honest, even today, the more I learn about myself, the more I know deep in my heart that I have much more to teach and express. This is probably one of the main reasons I am always motivated. Fashion is my means to express my knowledge and experience.

FM: Does Paris equal fashion? Why is Paris the “Mecca” of creation compared to London or Milan?

MS: Paris is the fashion capital because of its ability to adopt and appreciate. This is not just my view on this subject; our fashion history has shown that it is true – from the Japan 4 to the Antwerp 6. Paris, especially when it comes to the subject of fashion, is where it is because it appreciates creativity at its highest form.

FM: How has time evolved in the 21st century? What is time for you Mme Sitbon?

MS: Time is a gift. It is not for you to give or take. It is what is given to you.

FM: From the young generation of designers, who is your favourite and why? What makes a designer last?

MS: It is almost unfair for me to say, but both Phoebe Philo and Gabrielle Greiss are my favourites. I can’t really be sure why, maybe I am just happy that they have, since being my assistants, to become who they have become.

As for what makes a designer last, like I said before, it is a matter of focusing on the purpose of why you want to be a fashion designer. If the focus is not pure at heart, talent will not be able to compensate.

FM: Thank you for this wonderful conversation One last word? Lets say, your motto?

MS: Live. Every possible sense of the word.