Martine Sitbon is a designer whose clothes have always been linked with a certain luxury, a certain sense of hedonism – beautiful, powerful women taking charge of their femininity. As such, it stands to reason that the height of the heady 1980′s was when she first began her own label – after studying at the Studio Berçot in Paris and designing freelance.

Labelled “the new iconoclast” by Donna magazine, Martine quickly developed a cult following for her unique brand of glamorous garments that explored exotic fabrications with a coquettish charm.  Her collections have always carried a rocker edge, heavily influenced by the 1970′s music scene, and her earliest work quickly garnered worldwide attention from many stylists, journalists and celebrities of the time. The designs balanced a lavish use of floating ruffles and light, voluminous fabrics with tough, masculine suiting – always sculpting and defining the female form with a raw sensuality.

Below we present an archive of her work as featured in the worldwide press, appearing in the coolest magazines of the day such as Andy Warhol’s Interview, The Face and Vogue Italia. Several of the shots are taken by her long-time collaborator and friend Nick Knight, and realised by the art director of her label, Marc Ascoli.

Steven Meisel’s Madonna as Marilyn Monroe is another particular highlight, and a true example of the contrast between our A curators. Working at the same time as Maison Martin Margiela and Yohji Yamamoto, Martine Sitbon’s work took the Parisian fashion world’s immediate positive attention, unlike the avant-garde Belgian and new-wave Japanese designer. Even though using the same photographers and showing in the same city, these designers have little aesthetic connection, proving the cultural gaps and bridges that exist between designers, and how it is impossible to define an era with one distinct style. To this phenomenon, one can only say “vive la différence”!

Above: Vogue Italia Spring Summer 1986.

Above: The Face, Fall Winter 1987-88.

Above: Martine Sitbon advertising in Marie Claire Spring Summer 1990, photographed by Nick Knight.

Above: Madonna in Martine Sitbon Spring Summer 1991, for Vogue Italia February 1991 photographed by Steven Meisel.

Above: Interview Magazine, Fall Winter 1992 photographed by Nick Knight, styled by Marc Ascoli.

Above: Glamour, Spring Summer 1992 photographed by Nick Knight.

Rights reserved on all images.