Through the looking glass, 1869. The dark mirror to Lewis Carroll’s lauded novel Alice in Wonderland, when Alice enters ‘Looking-Glass Land’ through a mirror on the mantelpiece on a cold wintery night. An appropriately fantastical theme for Olivier Theyskens’ NºD – and who better to capture it than Karl Lagerfeld? A master of contradiction, Karl’s photography and fashion designs alike toe a fine line between the demure and the devilish, coquettish and coy. To begin his story, Karl applied his own scrawled calligraphy to the list of young subjects photographed by Lewis Carroll’s lens in the end of the 19th century (Above).

In this shadowy series, model Ciara Nugent’s milky complexion and dark mane paint a dream-like picture of Alice. Her brooding blue eyes suggesting an instinct that contradicts the floating, silky garments she is trapped in. Draped in antique silks and deconstructed modern garments (suggestive of lingerie) by Belgian stylist Laeticia Crahay, she is somewhat awkward with newfound womanhood, each pose an uncomfortable compromise between cover and exposure.

Above: Antique wedding dress, Anonymous. Private collection.

Above: Antique dress, Anonymous. Private collection. Knitted stockings, Stephan Schneider.

Above: Antique dress, Anonymous. Private collection. Knitted scarf, Veronique Leroy.

Above: Antique crepe dress, Anonymous. Private collection. Flower dress, Lutz.

Above: Antique dress, Anonymous. Private collection. Waistcoat with scarf, Comme des Garçons.

Above: Antique velvet coat, Anonymous. Private collection. Mohair sweater, Veronique Branquinho.

Above: Antique silk dress, Anonymous. Private collection. Underwear, Chanel.

Above: Antique chiffon dress, Anonymous. Private collection. Silk bow belt, Chanel.

Photography: Karl Lagerfeld.
Styling: Laeticia Crahay & Virginie Viard.
Make-up: Myriam Afia for Shiseido.
Hair: Odile Gilbert.
Model: Ciara Nugent @ Marilyn.
Thanka to Pascal Brault, Eric Pfrunder.