Returning to the lavish salon of Le Grand Hôtel Intercontinental in Paris, Riccardo Tisci yesterday ravaged guests with his latest assault of menswear for Givenchy Spring Summer 2011. Before the show we waited beneath the gilded arches as generations of supporters flooded in to fête their man, with Marina Abramovic seated front row alongside Carine Roitfeld, Lou Doillon, and Riccardo’s own mother and sisters.

To the Lost Boys’ soundtrack “Cry Little Sister”, models marched an uptempo walk around the circular ballroom – fuelled with the aggressive attitude of their Givenchy armour. Opening with white lace shirting over last season’s skirted shorts, the silhouettes evolved through a rally of spotted lace through to pale cream and a full-throttle black and yellow cheetah print, punctuated with shocking moulded bondage helmets. Laser-cut leather vertebrae was applied to the snub-pointed dress shoes, and worn as skeletal collars over shirts. Formal pieces were based on the geometry of his past seasons – with boxy shirting, slim trousers and a new split tail that jutted down trim suit jackets, continuing his bold vision of the modern male silhouette.

Adding to the drama, three women’s silhouettes entered the melée – with Malgosia Bela, Maria Carla Boscono and transgender muse Lea T appearing as vamps swathed in cheetah print suiting, their hair teased to 70′s heights, their eyes and lips blackened for a gothic glamour.

Hitting another hard note for spring, Riccardo instilled his collection with a new absurdity, reaching to some of the darkest places in his repertoire. Revelling in a solid foundation of form, his exploration of sensuality through print, texture and symbology remains relevant and challenging.

Prêt-a-Porter Homme Givenchy par Riccardo Tisci
Collection Printemps – Été 2011

Décor & Production
Shortcut Events

Musique
Frédéric Sanchez

Coiffure
Luigi Murenu

Maquillage Givenchy
Pat McGrath