Joanna Preiss uncovers Coccapani

Joanna Preiss photographed by Karim Sadli wearing Coccapani by Riccardo Tisci Spring Summer 2003

It is the history and personal evolution of a designer that ultimately informs much of who they are and what they create today – when charged with designing for a fashion house or under their own name. Whether it is their hometown, the school from which they graduated, a mentor who helped to define their perspective, or even a life-changing event – designers do not arrive at a unique and defined vision without influence and education from one or more of these elements.

As such, A#8 unfolds Riccardo Tisci’s journey before Givenchy through a subtle invocation of themes (such as the ocean and religious architecture) and more direct references to his previous endeavours.

One such project was Riccardo’s work for the Ferrari dynasty’s label Coccapani from 2002 – 2005,  reviving their tired Italian womenswear with his collection ‘Coccapani by Riccardo Tisci’ –  a much needed injection of glamour via intricate leatherwork, sequin embellishment and lingerie-inspired eveningwear.

As her contribution to A#8, French actress and model Joanna Preiss was photographed by Karim Sadli and styled by Riccardo Tisci in a daring gold leather overall from the Spring Summer 2003 collection of Coccapani by Riccardo Tisci. Multi-pocketed, zipped and topstitched, the metallic garment is a garish beacon conflicting with Preiss’s protective body language in the left image, her long hair covering her face and slender arms crossing her breast. A headshot on the right page is another contrast in black and white, revealing little of the garment but a thin shoulder strap – with Sadli concentrating on Joanna’s strong, convicted stare into the distance.

Sadli’s images convey the tension within Riccardo’s creations and the  mood of his work – a strong woman caught in a conflict of liberation and restriction, vulnerability and strength.

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