The final affair for our past curators this season, Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy show for Spring Summer 2010 was a precise execution of the fundamental offerings that underpin his aesthetic, a cool balance of convention and innovation that conjured powerful imagery of a modern Givenchy woman –  dark, alluring, and classic with an abstract sharpness. With a history spanning half a century, the house of Givenchy is one that exists within certain codes, and Riccardo himself is one whose mastery of reinvention informs his collections for a brand that manages to maintain the highest cache of cool whilst catering to the commercial realities of the industry.

As such, this season saw tailored blazers, tapered jodhpurs, empire line mini dresses and leggings interpreted in monochrome stripes, diagonal panelling, abstract baroque prints, technical ruffles and whispy silk chiffon. Disparate components were delivered in eclectic pairings that translated Riccardo’s dark romantic appeal with a summery flair – courtesy of wide contrasting lapels, baby-doll silhouettes, a plunging v-neck line, airy pleating and technical lace. All looks were worn with a sky-high open toe wedge in various wrapped permutations, corresponding with the colour palette of black, white, olive, bone and taupe. A splash of yellow broke up the procession of frothy evening wear, which were thigh-skimming dresses ruched and pleated to excess at times or simply and softly draped to cover the shoulders and embellished with metal hardware. Snub-pointed leather fez’s were a striking showpiece of millinery, that countered the frilly, pleated dresses with a fierce warrior mood.

Set to an ominously beautiful strings soundtrack and with the sports court floors spreading thick taped lines out from a white draped backdrop, the presentation was a contradiction in terms that sits perfectly in Riccardo’s world. Eerie and foreboding, while remaining classical and fresh, not many designers can boast this strange mix that speaks with equal strength (yet contrasting tone) to young and old.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDBmTYEItRU[/youtube]