Hans Ulrich Obrist is one of today’s most prominent figures in the contemporary art world – a curator whose influence has touched exhibitions, projects, books, galleries and artists in many countries. He has worked with and nurtured the careers of artists such as Tracey Emin, Gilbert & George and Damien Hirst, and collaborated with Brian Eno, Rem Koolhaas and many more creative powerhouses in different fields. After several years as curator of the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, Obrist is currently a curator at London’s Serpentine Gallery.

In 2004 Obrist recorded an interview with Yohji Yamamoto, a detailed discussion between the pair on Yohji’s history and practice. In it they discuss  Yohji’s book “Talking to Myself” – the rare, highly sought-after publication, the first in which Yohji became personally involved in documenting his work, a timeless ode to this Japanese master. The cover image is included above. Here is a selected excerpt from their conversation:

Hans Ulrich Obrist: At the start of your career, and many times afterwards in interviews, you said that you believe that clothes can transform people, which again is part of trahsformation of society. Can you tell me more about this aspect of transformation in your work?

Yohji Yamamoto: I have always said, especially to journalists, that buying a new jacket is like buying a new life. It can change your lifestyle completely or even your life itself. And by this I mean “Please don’t consume my clothes, they will live with you forever”.

HUO: In recent years there’s been a renewed interest in craft and a lot of artists have rediscovered it. You often said in interviews that this craft is the essence of things. Can you tell me something about the importance of craftsmanship?

YY: Human hands have become the most expensive thing. We are losing the skilfulness of human hands, day by day. In the fashion world, more than 90 percent of clothing is made by computer cutting.

HUO: You don’t use the computer, you make drawings?

YY: Yes, drawings and hand cutting.

HUO: You said in an interview that you wanted to make shapes.

YY: Yes, I’m very interested in making shapes, or forms, motions, actions, fluidity, silhouettes. So it naturally became monotone, I dont need any colour to speak.

HUO: And what about black, since black plays a very big role for you?

YY: Black is arrogant. But sometimes black can protect you. Sometimes black doesn’t bother people. Sometimes it is strong. Black means a lot.