Upon receiving a plastic white bow-tie as the invitation for the Yohji Yamamoto show, one could expect a certain grandeur was afoot – whether as tacky as the fabric or as whimsical as the idea of this historical neckpiece. Under the glare of their showroom lights in the 3rd arrondissement of Paris, Yohji proved the latter, delivering a period story of formalwear with all the pomp and ceremony of an Edwardian court.

Opening in heavy brocade tailcoats, powdered faces and tightly-pinned curls, Yohji’s men were European gentleman of the highest calibre. Pilgrim and Celtic references abounded, with delicate heraldic embroidery adorning jackets and knee-length polo shirts, and high felted hats and buckled shoes. Revelling in layers of fine suiting textiles, each look toed a fine line of modernity and historical costume – with waistcoats trimmed in jersey, plimsolls covered with floral brocade and punched brogues closed with a zip.

Breaking away from the common thread of monochromes, Yohji explored a broad palette of deep colour and embroideries, from burnt orange to turquoise cotton suiting, burgundy florals and ticking striped charcoals. Classically slim tailcoats were blown out to Yohji’s oversized proportions, worn over intricate shirting that cut away like waistcoat tails, with high peaked collars and the invitation’s loosely tied bow.

Evoking a dandy’s elegance, the show was a fresh step of spring air for the master of black, with a contemporary mix of sports elements that kept a relevance to the antiquated costumes. Without breaking new ground, Yohji gave us a timely reminder of the playful spirit that lies at the heart of his work – a rogue air that crosses time and geography to tell his eccentric story.

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