Spring Summer 2010 is a season riding on the back of the worldwide economic crisis, and the house of Yamamoto initially seemed stricken by this – choosing to house their presentation in their own space rather than an extravagant venue. The reality of this decision however failed to reflect upon the collection, which was as fresh and up-to-date as it was filled with classic Yohji moments.

Opening the show was ‘girl of the season’ Karlie Kloss, ashen-faced with hair teased to a dusty grey floss, in a high-collared cotton belted shirt dress, with steel-capped oxfords on foot. Subtle ruching began a story of strong shoulders and slim, tailored silhouettes with little of the draped volume so integral to the classic aesthetic of the label. Instead jackets and shirts peeled down to bustiers, necklines cut square at the bust, trousers were skin tight, and long billowed skirts split to the thigh.

Concealed buttons created a defining line through many silhouettes, as did double breasted, diagonally-zipped and corseted hook-and-eye jacket constructions that accented the waist.  Yohji played with artfully dissected circle patterns on tee shirts and denim, and shattered lace through dramatic skirting and light morning coats – for a look that was not so much deconstruction, but total annihilation.

In a pastel finale, lapels opened wide on a cropped cream biker, a boned corset jacket and variations on slimline cotton floral dresses and separates. A departure from the heavy monochromatic signatures of Yohji, yet with the sharpness of angle and undeniable mastery of avant-garde tailoring that keeps him in a league of his own.

Keep reading as we bring you Yohji Yamamoto’s A#2 online in the near future.